The Shells of Niʻihau

Ni‘ihau shell jewelry is one of the most Hawaiian art forms represented in Maui Hands. A private island with a small population of mostly pure Native Hawaiian descent, Ni‘ihau has no rivers running into the ocean. The surrounding coral beds remain unspoiled and untouched by outside influences, allowing the tiny shells – pūpū ‘o Ni‘ihau – to develop their prized shine and delicacy.

The tradition of sewing these shells into delicate lei of unsurpassed beauty has been passed down for generations on the island, continuing uninterrupted for hundreds of years. Far from the bustle of modern life, it may take makers a year or more to gather just the right combination for their complex designs. The shells are sorted by type, size, and quality, only then to be pierced with a sharp awl –  unfortunately breaking many in the process.

Artisans create their own beautiful designs, yet follow traditional weave patterns to craft culturally rich, wearable pieces of art. We hope you will come to appreciate Ni‘ihau shell jewelry as much as we do!

 

Pūpū ʻO Niʻihau

Kahelelani, meaning “the royal going,”  are named so because in early times they were primarily worn by chiefs – Chief Kahelelani being the first on Niʻihau. These are the smallest of the Niʻihau shells and the most difficult to collect, pierce, and string; therefore, they are also the most prized. Kahelelani shells Niʻihau from are the only shells in the world that gemologists will grade for insurance purposes.

Momi, which means pearl, are oval shaped and come in an array of colors

Lāiki resemble grains of rice and are usually white or ivory in color.

‘Ālīlea shells are similar to Momi but larger and often woven into men’s leis.

Pōleho shells are similar in size to the ʻālīlea shell and range in color from golden to dark brown. They are also often woven into men’s leis.

Pōleholeho are cowrie shells and there is a variety of them found on Niʻihau. They are used to hold the clasp on larger leis.

Basic Shades / Patterns

ʻāhiehie – light

ikaika – dark

kahakaha – striped

ʻōnikiniki – spotted

Basic Colors

ʻākala – pink

‘ākala pua – flower pink

‘ākala wai pāpipi – hot pink

ʻeleʻele – black

keʻokeʻo – white

lenalena – yellow

mākuʻe – burgundy

ʻōmaʻomaʻo – green

ʻulaʻula – burgundy/red

 

Basic Weaves

Crown Flower – like the flower

Heliconia – like the flower

Kipona – mixed shell with a variety of pupu

Kui Pololei – end-to-end

Pikake – like the flower

Poepoe – round 2 or 4 tie

Wili – twist

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